Delicate Striped Hat Pattern

My hubby modelling the hat!

I made this hat today for my charity Knits For Knoxville and wrote down the pattern as I worked on it.

Here are a few abbreviations I used in my pattern to make it shorter:

DPNs = Double Pointed Needles

Slip 1 wyib = Slip 1 stitch from left needle onto right needle, keeping the current row's yarn in the back

Slip 1 wyif = Slip 1 stitch from left needle onto right needle, keeping the current row's yarn in the front

Knit 2tog = Knit the next stitch through 2 stitches in order to decrease by 1

I used worsted weight yarn (Red Heart brand) and a size 5mm circular needle and double pointed needles during the decrease.  Color A is called Grey Heather and Color B is called Petal Pink.  I highlighted the color changes.  If I don't mention a color during a row, continue using the color you used for the previous row.  I didn't cut my yarn in between each row.  I simply switched yarns, and ignored the color not in use until I switched colors.  This allowed me to only weave in 4 ends at the end of the project instead of like... 20 or so.  =)  Happy knitting!

My gauge was approximately [4 stitches = 1 inch wide] and [6 rows = 1 inch high].   You can change yarn/needle sizes if you keep the gauge the same.

Cast on 84 stitches.  If you are using DPNs for the whole project please cast 28 stitches on each of 3 needles.  It will make things easier later.

Rows 1-8 - Use color A (Knit 1, Purl 1) around

Rows 9-10 - Knit

Row 11 - Use color B (Knit 1, Slip 1 wyib) around

Rows 12-13 - Use color A Knit

Rows 14-15 - Use color B Purl

Rows 16-18 - Use color A Knit

Row 19 - Use color B Purl

Rows 20-21 - Knit

Row 22 - Purl

Row 23 - Use color A (Knit 1, Slip 1 wyif) around

Rows 24-26 - Knit

Row 27 - Purl

Row 28 - Use color B Purl

Rows 29-31 - Knit  After you are done with Row 31 you can cut off color B, but of course leave enough length that you can weave in the end later!

Rows 32-36 - Use color A for the rest of the hat! Knit

Row 37 - Knit, placing stitch markers between every 14 stitches.  You should have 6 equal sections when you are done.  If you are using DPNs, place 1 stitch marker on each needle, with 14 stitches on either side.  The separations between the needles will also count as a "stitch marker" when you are using DPNs.

Row 38 - (Knit 12, Knit 2tog)  You don't have to count your stitches if you used stitch markers.  If you used stitch markers, simply do the decrease on the 2 stitches right before each stitch marker.  If you're using DPNs you'll also decrease the last 2 stitches on each needle.

Row 39 - Knit

Row 40 - (Knit 11, Knit 2tog)

Row 41 - Knit

Row 42 - (Knit 10, Knit 2tog)  Starting at this row, I didn't even actually count each row.  I just continued to decrease the 2 stitches before each stitch marker until the very end without paying attention to beginning and end of the rows.  I knew I was at the end when I had only 6 stitches left.

Row 43 - (Knit 9, Knit 2tog)

Row 44 - (Knit 8, Knit 2tog)

Row 45 - (Knit 7, Knit 2tog)  This is the row where I started using the DPNs.  You can tell you're ready to switch to DPNs when it's getting harder to knit because there aren't enough stitches to go the whole way around the circular needle.  Put 2 sections on each needle and continue working in the round.

Row 46 - (Knit 6, Knit 2tog)

Row 47 - (Knit 5, Knit 2tog)

Row 48 - (Knit 4, Knit 2tog)

Row 49 - (Knit 3, Knit 2tog)

Row 50 - (Knit 2, Knit 2tog)

Row 51 - (Knit 1, Knit 2tog)

Row 52 - (Knit 2 tog), removing stitch markers as you go.  After this row you should have 6 stitches left on your needles.

Cut off the yarn.  Use a tapestry needle to draw the yarn through the remaining stitches.  Pull tight and weave in all the ends.